Obviously, all gardens differ, however gardens are among the most beautiful places to shoot.
The fun thing about gardens is that rich with life and detailed with architecture and landscape, gardens provide a myriad of interesting subject matter, including flowers of various colors and shapes, ivy on metal fences, textured walkways, and vibrant leafy plant growth.
So here are tips on getting started with
photography in the garden, one of easiest places to access with a wealth of photographic opportunities.
Time of Day
Noon on a sunny day is hands down the absolute worst time to take pictures in
your garden.
- When it comes to lighting for your pictures, more isn’t always better. Quality of light far surpasses Quantity of light!
- Noon light will produce vibrant colors, but also blown out highlights and excessively hard shadows. These will take away from the beauty of the garden.
Shoot when the light is even.
- Early mornings or late afternoons are the best, when the light tends to be warmer.
- On the other hand, overcast days are PERFECT for close ups and flower photography: virtually no shadows create great even tones!
Shoot when the dew is still on the leaves… or…
- If you can’t bring yourself to rise and shine, bring a small spray bottle of water to mist the leaves. This will give the impression of fine early morning images.
Types of Cameras
Universal Camera Settings used for Flower Photography!
AUTO
- Good for general shooting, but fairly limited
Camera doesn’t know what it’s taking a picture of, so it guesses based on
what light it sees, not what the subject matter actually is.
LANDSCAPE
- This mode is still fully automatic, but much better for outdoor photos
- This tells the camera to favor greens and blues (more “natury” colors)
- This mode also tries to increase the Depth of Field in your image (more on that in just a moment), creating sharper backgrounds. Not ideal for close ups or individual flowers, but great for wide shots of the garden.
MACRO (Flower Mode)
- Great for individual flower shots. Helps to isolate focus on a particular portion of your image.
- This mode tends to work best on Point and Shoot models of cameras. In DSLR’s it is better to use the Aperture Priority Mode.
A/AV (Aperture Priority)
- This is a mode that not many of the P&S cameras are going to have. However, every DSLR will… no matter the experience level.
- By controlling your Aperture, you can control your Depth of Field, allowing your camera to set your shutter speed for you.
DOF = the amount of focus in front of and behind your subject. Smaller aperture numbers (1.8, 2, 2.8, 3.5) give blurrier
- backgrounds, allowing you to pop your subject more in your frame.
- Larger aperture numbers (8, 11, 16, 22) give you sharper backgrounds.
- To access these numbers, simply set your camera to the Aperture Priority Mode. You will have a dial or wheel somewhere on your camera that will change these numbers.
- This mode allows for more manual control of other settings as well, though we will not get into all of these here.
ISO (film speed… yes, I know this is digital photography!)
- If your camera offers you the ability to manually control your ISO, I would heavily recommend that you do so.
- Higher ISO choices (800 or 1600) will speed up your shutter, allowing you to handhold shots your normally couldn’t, but that comes at a price: dull muted colors and grainy or “noisy” images. (not ideal for garden images)
Tools of the Trade
There is always an array of tools that you can get to improve your images. However,
Composition
There are several things you can do when you are looking through the lens to improve your images.
Presented by: Matthew Dyson {Bedford Camera & Video}-
University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension ServiceContact Phone: 501.758.2020
Contact e-mail: bedfordclasses@yahoo.com
See all the Newest Products in Camera, Photo & Video Announced at Photokina, the World's Leading Imaging Fair:
Photokina at amazon.com
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Saturday, January 17, 2015
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